In a remote forest camp of Manas National Park stands Banikanta proud in his uniform. He is not a Forest guard but a Bodo who voluntarily helps in the protection of the park. This is indeed an unusual situation rarely seen in any other part of the country.
Manas known for its rare and endangered wildlife, not found anywhere else in the world, such as Assam Roofed Turtle, the Hispid Hare, the Golden Langur and the Pygmy Hog,
was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Ironically, in 1992,
it was put it in the category of ‘World Heritage Site in Danger’ due to
heavy poaching and terrorist activities. The ‘80s were a turbulent time
for Assam
with the beginning of the movement to demand a separate land for the
Bodos. This movement took a huge toll on the national park first, since the
insurgent groups and militants used the forests as hideouts and second
because, both national and international poaching groups took advantage
of the situation leading to destruction. The once resplendent park
became a mere shadow of its former self.
In
2003, the Bodo Accord resulted in the establishment of the Bodoland
Territorial Council (BTC). This also brought with it a realization that
Manas once the pride of the Bodos, needed to be restored to its former
glory. Local youth and activists from the All Bodo Students Union (ABSU)
decided to take the responsibility for this through their local unit of
Chapaguri Koklabari Anchalik Committee (CKAC). The restoration of the
park and the endeavour to make it an important tourist destination was
thus incorporated as a special package in the Bodo Accord. The Accord
also emphasized that participatory tourism should be promoted in Manas.
Through
the support of the ABSU and CKAC, came into being, the Manas
Maozigendri Ecotourism Society (MMES), primarily to look after
conservation and ecotourism issues in and around Manas. A membership
organization, MMES members include ABSU workers, former Bodo Liberation Tigers Force (BLTF) members, ex-poachers, ex-timber fellers and local community members from fringe villages of Manas.
The Society gets its name from a legend about a self styled king who ruled in this area in the mid 18th
century. Among his many workers was a short stout female cook, who the
king really favoured because of her hard work and dedication. He
lovingly called her ‘Maozigendri’ (literally meaning pot-bellied female
cat). One day, she was washing in the river close by when she collapsed
and died. The king was greatly saddened on hearing this and declared
that the river be called Maozigendri after her. Understanding the
significance of the river for local people, the Society (MMES) was thus
named. Perhaps the name also indicates prosperity and good health, both
important for the Manas National Park.
MMES
set up the Manas Maozigendri Jungle Camp to facilitate tourism in the
area. The tourism infrastructure at the camp is small, essentially
consists of four cottages and a dining cum common room all built with
bamboo and other indigenous material. There is additional accommodation
at another location. MMES carries out what it terms ‘participatory
tourism’ where the tourists are encouraged to participate in various
activities of MMES such as patrolling in the park, monitoring and census
of various faunal species. Revenue earned from tourism does not go back
to the community. The entire profit is spent for conservation after
paying expenses and salary/remuneration. Guards at each of the posts
within Manas, have also been trained to keep records of wildlife
sightings too. Digen at one of the forest posts, very proudly showed us
this record.
In
2005, Help Tourism, an organization promoting tourism, particularly in
the Northeast stepped in to support MMES specifically in its ecotourism
work. It also played a catalytic role particularly when Manas was
declared a World Heritage Site in danger and mobilised support for the
Park. The first step towards this was attempts at stopping of all
poaching in an area of 250 sq. km. The felling of trees and sale of wild
meat was also prohibited in this area. The hunters/poachers were
punished and subsequently rehabilitated for patrolling and protection.
Help Tourism has basically motivated the local people, ensured that an
appropriate institutional structure is in place and has also facilitated
capacity building through training programmes in the hospitality
sector.
Out
of the 60 plus villages in the fringe area of the park, at least 17 are
involved in various activities of MMES. The biggest challenge being
faced by the Society today is how to keep up with providing rations to
the volunteers who patrol the park. MMES gets some support from the
Forest Department who has accepted the Society and its members as
partners in conservation. But even more significant is the fact that the
political system in the form of the Bodoland Territorial Council (BTC)
supports this initiative and would be keen to support many more of this
kind.
Manas
has been the victim of severe political strife for over 17 years. There
is also an entire cadre of people who have in the past been involved in
illegal felling of trees and poaching of wild animals. There is a need
to focus their energies on something positive and constructive. This
initiative has given Bodos a sense of pride and purpose to help regain
the lost splendour of the park. The ecotourism initiative in particular
has brought to Manas a number of tourists, both domestic and foreign
giving the local people a further incentive to protect what is left of a
once ravaged ecosystem. Also, since the activities of MMES are so
intricately connected, all the stakeholders including tourists and
volunteers see the connection between the health of the ecosystem,
tourism and the well being of the local community. Through MMES and many
like it perhaps the value of ecotourism as a tool to link conservation
and communities will be recognized.
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