The Snow Leopard

And I did NOT see the Snow Leopard.

Pankaj, Tashi and I are on our way back from the Hanle wetlands. The Hanle marshes are further most in Ladakh (close to the China border) and are unique habitats for high altitude fauna. One of my favourite places with soft tufts of grass on marshy land, sort of like pincushions on which in the summer months you find sheep, goats as well the black-necked crane. Hanle also houses the Indian Astronomical Observatory. We were kindly hosted in their guesthouse, which houses its own scientists. The guesthouse is popularly known by the locals as ‘sintec’(based on the word scientist!). It is 5.00 am and bright daylight. We are driving towards Loma where there is a new nesting site for the black-necked crane. We got out of the car and it was then I heard what I thought was an alarm call. What could it be? I had never heard an alarm call in this region. We figured it could be the red fox. It called for almost 20 minutes and it was then that Tashi says he spotted the snow leopard. At a distance and well camouflaged. However, try as I might, I just couldn’t see it. With a deep sense of disappointment we had to leave soon. This was definitely a first for me, not to have spotted an animal that others seem to see. But perhaps that is why this elusive animal is called the ‘ghost of the mountains’. It was still a beautiful morning, a breathtaking drive and we did see that beautiful black-necked crane at its nest. So what was I complaining about? For those of you who have read, The Snow Leopard’ I think I truely understood the meaning of the book. “Have you seen the snow leopard? No! Isn’t that wonderful?” Later in the evening, back in Leh, it was raining and the sun was shining too. I was so sure I would see a rainbow, but didn’t. I then remembered my late friend Mandy’s words,” have faith in your snow leopards and rainbows, they will happen someday”.