Thursday, February 14, 2013

Netuk House: An Urban Homestay

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We are heading towards the enchanting state of Sikkim. This Himalayan state, despite being the second smallest state in India, is rich in both its cultural and natural resources. Legend has it that the Buddhist saint Guru Padamasambhava or Rinpoche visited Sikkim in the 8th century AD and is said to have foretold the spread of Buddhism and also predicted the era of monarchy in Sikkim. As predicted, the Namgyal dynasty was established in Sikkim in 1642 and the Namgyals ruled over Sikkim as hereditary kings for about 332 years. Sikkim aligned itself with the British rulers in India in the 19th century and became part of India in 1975.

Our journey from Bagdogra to Gangtok that should have taken four to four and a half hours took almost six hours.  Ongoing road construction resulted in several traffic bottlenecks. It had been a long journey from Delhi and we were looking forward to a clean bed and bathroom, minimum requirements for intrepid travelers like us. Our driver informed us that we were to stay in something called ‘Nitu Hostel’ and the name itself didn’t sound too promising. As we drove into Gangtok we first encountered fairy tale houses brightly painted in an assortment of colours. We had just enough time to get over this surprise when the urban sprawl really hit us. Since Sikkim was annexed to India, post the Colonial Era it was never developed by the British as one of the legendary ‘Hill Stations’. The result has been unplanned and haphazard development. As we go deeper into the chaos that is Gangtok, we still wonder about our destination with some trepidation. After a few twists and turns our car stops abruptly. We get out and climb a few steps and encounter a charming old house built in traditional Sikkimese style. This is Netuk House, our place of stay that our driver had obviously mispronounced.


Netuk House is perhaps the oldest home stay in Sikkim. It has been the home of the Dengzongpas, an old and respected Sikkimese family. Strategically located on the Tibet road, it must have been a rather significant place when trade still thrived between Sikkim and Tibet. Today it stands tucked away in a corner of Gangtok, but still only a few minutes away from the hustle and bustle of the town. The guest house that is now part of the Heritage Houses of Himalayas has 12 rooms all decorated in the traditional Sikkimese style with indigenous fabric and furniture. The open terrace with the traditional Buddhist flags flying, affords a breathtaking view of the majestic Khanchendzonga.  As we sip tea here, the clouds descend upon the forests on the eastern Himalayan slopes. Look over the wall and the scenario changes. You can see the real face of Gangtok, jumbled and chaotic. It is this paradox that makes Netuk house so unique. It is quiet and charming, but yet easily accessible to the rest of Gangtok. The food served is home cooked and delicious. One can taste a range of traditional Sikkimese dishes, personally supervised by the lady of the house.  It is not uncommon for a member of the family joining one for meals and amicably chatting with the guests.
 

The welcoming exterior of Netuk House
   
The Dengzongpas are warm and wonderful hosts and can also guide guests on various aspects of the state. Netuk house provides a unique Sikkimese experience and stands out like an oasis in the midst of the growing urbanity of this hill state capital.

1 comment:

  1. Guda bishnoiyan in Jodhpur ,Rajasthan is a example of real eco tourism where local people protects forest and wild animals .

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