Protectors of the Yuksam-Dzongri Trail

A group of tourists was trekking on the Yuksam-Dzongri trekking trail in Sikkim. They were accompanied by a guide, porters and cooks.  At the end of the day, the tourists were tired and cold. They requested the porters to build them a bonfire. For the tourists, this seemed like an exciting idea to get warm and cozy. However, much to their surprise, the porters refused to comply with their request. On being asked why, they were told that they had been taught during their training that wood should not be collected for bonfires along the trail since this led to its degradation. So amazed were the tourists with this insight that they wrote a letter to the Chief Minister of Sikkim commending these people and congratulating the state for its ‘ecosensitive’ attitude.    

Yuksam-Dzongri is a well-known trekking trail on the route to the mighty Khangchendzonga, the world’s third highest mountain peak. The trail runs along the periphery of the Khangchendzonga National Park, famous for the red panda and many other animal and bird species.  It starts from the village of Yuksam and winds its way to Dzongri and finally to Goecha La, covering a distance of 45km and reaching an altitude of 4940m.This is also one of the few trekking trails open for Indians as well as foreigners in Sikkim.

The village of Yuksam lies tucked away in the far western corner of Sikkim. It is highly revered (it is said that this was the place where the Gods first came and settled) and known to be the first capital of Sikkim. Two of the state’s sacred lakes, Kathok and Khecheopalri are also situated in this area. Local elders tell an interesting tale about these lakes. Kathok is supposed to be the male and Khecheopalri the female lake. Kathok was given more importance to the Kathok lake, while Khecheopalri was neglected and polluted by people dumping garbage into it. It is said that Khecheopalri became annoyed at this and went and settled away from Kathok lake. 

Yuksam used to be a sleepy little village. Tourists hardly spent any time at Yuksam before setting off on the trek. The villagers had very little interest in the tourists or the trail since only those who were hired as guides, porters or cooks earned from trekking activities. This remained so until 1995 when a project on Sikkim Biodiversity and Ecotourism started in this village. The aim of the project was to ensure that the people of Yuksam benefited from the trekking tourism on the trail, to address the threats that the biodiversity on the trail faced and to then try and influence the state government to have better policies for tourism in general and ecotourism in particular.

The project tried to achieve these aims through training of many different groups of people. There were training programmes for the guides who took tourists on the trail. These programmes made the guides aware of the ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ on the trail. The guides were also made to realize the importance of this trail because of its unique biodiversity. There were training programmes for porters and cooks, focused on how best they could carry on with their activities without causing much damage to the trail. As a result of the trainings, these people became aware of the significance of this trail and this knowledge instilled in them a sense of pride and responsibility towards it As feedback about these well trained and aware guides, porters and cooks went back to the state government, their wages were increased and this added as another incentive to do a good job.  

Most of the guides, porters and cooks belonged to the village of Yuksam. As the other villagers watched these trainings and the results from them, they also got enthused and wanted to contribute to the project. They realized that if they made their village and houses more attractive to tourists, then perhaps these people who spent only one night in the village might stay longer. Many villagers started giving out rooms in their houses for tourists to spend the night. Shopkeepers started storing more things in their shops. Residents opened a few more restaurants as tourists started spending more time in the village. Yuksam seemed to suddenly wake up and take pride in its existence!

The youth of the village then decided to get together and form an organization that they called the Khangchendzonga Conservation Committee (KCC). The Yuksam-Dzongri trail being on the periphery of the national park is managed by the Forest Department. The KCC, however, decided to help the Forest Department in keeping the trail clean, by organizing regular clean-up campaigns. The KCC also developed a Code of Conduct for all trekkers, very clearly pointing out what could and could not be done on the trail. Visitors to Yuksam were requested to follow the Code of Conduct. Planning for all these activities was carried out along with all the villagers, who had an equal say on what should be done. 

Once, while members of the KCC were cleaning the trail, they came across two foreigners collecting insects. When asked what they were doing, the foreigners said that they were scientists and were collecting insects for research. Members of KCC got suspicious and asked the foreigners if they had got permission from the Government to do so. At this point, the foreigners gave some excuse for not having permission and tried to get away. However, members of KCC were on the alert and caught them. These foreigners were handed over to the Forest Department officers in Yuksam. Investigations revealed that the foreigners were Russians who were part of a much larger gang smuggling insects out of India. The Forest Department officials thanked and congratulated the KCC members for their good work.     

The beautiful Himlayan state of Sikkim has a lot to offer to tourists in terms of natural beauty. Tourism planning at Yuksam for the Yuksam-Dzongri trail is now used as a model for Sikkim. The state government is using this model for planning tourism in different parts of Sikkim. Perhaps the most important impact this project has had on planning in government is to ensure that different kinds of people ranging from the villagers, tour operators and government officials all sit together and plan for a particular area.

If you visit Sikkim, don’t forget to trek on the Yuksam-Dzongri trail.
                                                  

                                                                                     

The Snow Leopard

And I did NOT see the Snow Leopard.

Pankaj, Tashi and I are on our way back from the Hanle wetlands. The Hanle marshes are further most in Ladakh (close to the China border) and are unique habitats for high altitude fauna. One of my favourite places with soft tufts of grass on marshy land, sort of like pincushions on which in the summer months you find sheep, goats as well the black-necked crane. Hanle also houses the Indian Astronomical Observatory. We were kindly hosted in their guesthouse, which houses its own scientists. The guesthouse is popularly known by the locals as ‘sintec’(based on the word scientist!). It is 5.00 am and bright daylight. We are driving towards Loma where there is a new nesting site for the black-necked crane. We got out of the car and it was then I heard what I thought was an alarm call. What could it be? I had never heard an alarm call in this region. We figured it could be the red fox. It called for almost 20 minutes and it was then that Tashi says he spotted the snow leopard. At a distance and well camouflaged. However, try as I might, I just couldn’t see it. With a deep sense of disappointment we had to leave soon. This was definitely a first for me, not to have spotted an animal that others seem to see. But perhaps that is why this elusive animal is called the ‘ghost of the mountains’. It was still a beautiful morning, a breathtaking drive and we did see that beautiful black-necked crane at its nest. So what was I complaining about? For those of you who have read, The Snow Leopard’ I think I truely understood the meaning of the book. “Have you seen the snow leopard? No! Isn’t that wonderful?” Later in the evening, back in Leh, it was raining and the sun was shining too. I was so sure I would see a rainbow, but didn’t. I then remembered my late friend Mandy’s words,” have faith in your snow leopards and rainbows, they will happen someday”.

Mawphlang: Where time stands still*

To me Mawphlang has always been magical. I had been hearing about this particular sacred grove for many years and I had visualized a living sacred grove tucked away in some remote corner of Meghalaya. It was thus indeed like a dream come true when I walked into the Forest Secretary, Meghalaya’s office in Shillong and was informed that they were taking me to Mawphlang. Little did I know that Mawphlang was a mere 45 minutes drive from Shillong. We were fortunate enough to have been accompanied by Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh, a local who has been a crusader for the sacred grove and is a fund of knowledge about the place. ‘Meghalaya’ in Sanskrit literally means the, ‘abode of clouds’ and as we drive along we find how true this is. This north-eastern state comprises of the of South Garo Hills, West Garo Hills, East Garo Hills, West Khasi Hills, East Khasi Hills, Ribhoi and Jaintia Hills districts. The state has many indigenous tribes primarily the Khasis, the Garos and the Jaintias and smaller ones like Karbis, Mikirs, Hajongs, Kochs and Rabhas.

The Khasi Hills have a unique ecosystem. Air currents rising from the Bay of Bengal generate summer storms that lash out on the Meghalaya Plateau giving rise to heavy monsoon rains and making these hills one of the wettest places on earth. The wet temperate forests here are a treasure trove of biodiversity. The region of Mawphlang is also known for its ‘berry wine’ made from the berry Prunus nepalensis (Sohang). It used to grow wild, but of late as the demand for its products grows, it has become popular with farmers as a cultivated crop. Sacred groves set aside for their cultural and religious significance are scattered throughout the state of Meghalaya. It is estimated that there are over 101 such areas through the state, but are more common in the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. A few are also found in the Garo Hills. These groves cover an estimated area of more than 10,000 hectares. Since the groves are subject to very little disturbance, they have over time become important repositories of the locally representative biodiversity. The groves harbor many endangered and endemic species of flora and fauna. Mawphlang is one of the several sacred groves found in this area.

As we approach the sacred grove, and drive through the clouds that hang low, we start seeing massive stone megaliths, a tribute to the ancestors long gone. These megaliths guard the 75 hectare sacred forest. The first sight of the grove takes my breath away. It is truly as magical as I had imagined it. The forests inside the grove are dense and dark, a complete contrast to the surrounding rolling grasslands. Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh escorts us into the grove. There are established pathways on which one can walk. Not the entire grove is accessible to visitors. Mr. Lyngdoh also explained that not even a twig can be taken from the forest. Harm and misery befalls anyone who attempts to do so. It is also believed that the spirits and deities that reside in the groves protect the local population from various kinds of calamities. While showing us the wonders of the grove, he gently picks up a seed that is popularly called ‘Rudraksh’ and used in many religious ceremonies. After explaining to us its significance, he puts it back to where he found it.

 

As we walk along the path in the dense forest, sun streaks through the tree canopy in several places. We also see more stone structures where rituals are still conducted by the local people for specific occasions. These add to the mystique of the place. As an avid reader of Enid Blyton in my childhood, I could almost imagine a few pixies and elves running around these structures. Add to this, the many different kinds of mushrooms growing and the picture is complete. The trees are laden with a variety of orchids. There is an amazing diversity of vegetation on all sides. It is significant that this is indeed a living sacred grove. Rituals are still conducted here. 

The grove is also used for educational purposes where school children are brought here on a regular basis. They are accompanied by Tambor Lyngdoh himself or others who are knowledgeable about the grove. There cannot be a better way to expose children to the wonders of nature as also the spiritual and cultural significance of biodiversity conservation. Despite many more sacred groves in the area, Mawphlang remains the most popular perhaps because of its vicinity to Shillong and is also a popular tourist destination. For most tourists it is a day trip from Shillong. But there are now limited facilities available in the adjoining village of homestays. Something tells me that Mawphlang will always remain magical, a living place.

*This appeared in the Deccan Herald, Student Edition, March 11, 2013