Mawphlang: Where time stands still*

To me Mawphlang has always been magical. I had been hearing about this particular sacred grove for many years and I had visualized a living sacred grove tucked away in some remote corner of Meghalaya. It was thus indeed like a dream come true when I walked into the Forest Secretary, Meghalaya’s office in Shillong and was informed that they were taking me to Mawphlang. Little did I know that Mawphlang was a mere 45 minutes drive from Shillong. We were fortunate enough to have been accompanied by Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh, a local who has been a crusader for the sacred grove and is a fund of knowledge about the place. ‘Meghalaya’ in Sanskrit literally means the, ‘abode of clouds’ and as we drive along we find how true this is. This north-eastern state comprises of the of South Garo Hills, West Garo Hills, East Garo Hills, West Khasi Hills, East Khasi Hills, Ribhoi and Jaintia Hills districts. The state has many indigenous tribes primarily the Khasis, the Garos and the Jaintias and smaller ones like Karbis, Mikirs, Hajongs, Kochs and Rabhas.

The Khasi Hills have a unique ecosystem. Air currents rising from the Bay of Bengal generate summer storms that lash out on the Meghalaya Plateau giving rise to heavy monsoon rains and making these hills one of the wettest places on earth. The wet temperate forests here are a treasure trove of biodiversity. The region of Mawphlang is also known for its ‘berry wine’ made from the berry Prunus nepalensis (Sohang). It used to grow wild, but of late as the demand for its products grows, it has become popular with farmers as a cultivated crop. Sacred groves set aside for their cultural and religious significance are scattered throughout the state of Meghalaya. It is estimated that there are over 101 such areas through the state, but are more common in the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. A few are also found in the Garo Hills. These groves cover an estimated area of more than 10,000 hectares. Since the groves are subject to very little disturbance, they have over time become important repositories of the locally representative biodiversity. The groves harbor many endangered and endemic species of flora and fauna. Mawphlang is one of the several sacred groves found in this area.

As we approach the sacred grove, and drive through the clouds that hang low, we start seeing massive stone megaliths, a tribute to the ancestors long gone. These megaliths guard the 75 hectare sacred forest. The first sight of the grove takes my breath away. It is truly as magical as I had imagined it. The forests inside the grove are dense and dark, a complete contrast to the surrounding rolling grasslands. Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh escorts us into the grove. There are established pathways on which one can walk. Not the entire grove is accessible to visitors. Mr. Lyngdoh also explained that not even a twig can be taken from the forest. Harm and misery befalls anyone who attempts to do so. It is also believed that the spirits and deities that reside in the groves protect the local population from various kinds of calamities. While showing us the wonders of the grove, he gently picks up a seed that is popularly called ‘Rudraksh’ and used in many religious ceremonies. After explaining to us its significance, he puts it back to where he found it.

 

As we walk along the path in the dense forest, sun streaks through the tree canopy in several places. We also see more stone structures where rituals are still conducted by the local people for specific occasions. These add to the mystique of the place. As an avid reader of Enid Blyton in my childhood, I could almost imagine a few pixies and elves running around these structures. Add to this, the many different kinds of mushrooms growing and the picture is complete. The trees are laden with a variety of orchids. There is an amazing diversity of vegetation on all sides. It is significant that this is indeed a living sacred grove. Rituals are still conducted here. 

The grove is also used for educational purposes where school children are brought here on a regular basis. They are accompanied by Tambor Lyngdoh himself or others who are knowledgeable about the grove. There cannot be a better way to expose children to the wonders of nature as also the spiritual and cultural significance of biodiversity conservation. Despite many more sacred groves in the area, Mawphlang remains the most popular perhaps because of its vicinity to Shillong and is also a popular tourist destination. For most tourists it is a day trip from Shillong. But there are now limited facilities available in the adjoining village of homestays. Something tells me that Mawphlang will always remain magical, a living place.

*This appeared in the Deccan Herald, Student Edition, March 11, 2013