The Snow Leopard

And I did NOT see the Snow Leopard.

Pankaj, Tashi and I are on our way back from the Hanle wetlands. The Hanle marshes are further most in Ladakh (close to the China border) and are unique habitats for high altitude fauna. One of my favourite places with soft tufts of grass on marshy land, sort of like pincushions on which in the summer months you find sheep, goats as well the black-necked crane. Hanle also houses the Indian Astronomical Observatory. We were kindly hosted in their guesthouse, which houses its own scientists. The guesthouse is popularly known by the locals as ‘sintec’(based on the word scientist!). It is 5.00 am and bright daylight. We are driving towards Loma where there is a new nesting site for the black-necked crane. We got out of the car and it was then I heard what I thought was an alarm call. What could it be? I had never heard an alarm call in this region. We figured it could be the red fox. It called for almost 20 minutes and it was then that Tashi says he spotted the snow leopard. At a distance and well camouflaged. However, try as I might, I just couldn’t see it. With a deep sense of disappointment we had to leave soon. This was definitely a first for me, not to have spotted an animal that others seem to see. But perhaps that is why this elusive animal is called the ‘ghost of the mountains’. It was still a beautiful morning, a breathtaking drive and we did see that beautiful black-necked crane at its nest. So what was I complaining about? For those of you who have read, The Snow Leopard’ I think I truely understood the meaning of the book. “Have you seen the snow leopard? No! Isn’t that wonderful?” Later in the evening, back in Leh, it was raining and the sun was shining too. I was so sure I would see a rainbow, but didn’t. I then remembered my late friend Mandy’s words,” have faith in your snow leopards and rainbows, they will happen someday”.

Mawphlang: Where time stands still*

To me Mawphlang has always been magical. I had been hearing about this particular sacred grove for many years and I had visualized a living sacred grove tucked away in some remote corner of Meghalaya. It was thus indeed like a dream come true when I walked into the Forest Secretary, Meghalaya’s office in Shillong and was informed that they were taking me to Mawphlang. Little did I know that Mawphlang was a mere 45 minutes drive from Shillong. We were fortunate enough to have been accompanied by Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh, a local who has been a crusader for the sacred grove and is a fund of knowledge about the place. ‘Meghalaya’ in Sanskrit literally means the, ‘abode of clouds’ and as we drive along we find how true this is. This north-eastern state comprises of the of South Garo Hills, West Garo Hills, East Garo Hills, West Khasi Hills, East Khasi Hills, Ribhoi and Jaintia Hills districts. The state has many indigenous tribes primarily the Khasis, the Garos and the Jaintias and smaller ones like Karbis, Mikirs, Hajongs, Kochs and Rabhas.

The Khasi Hills have a unique ecosystem. Air currents rising from the Bay of Bengal generate summer storms that lash out on the Meghalaya Plateau giving rise to heavy monsoon rains and making these hills one of the wettest places on earth. The wet temperate forests here are a treasure trove of biodiversity. The region of Mawphlang is also known for its ‘berry wine’ made from the berry Prunus nepalensis (Sohang). It used to grow wild, but of late as the demand for its products grows, it has become popular with farmers as a cultivated crop. Sacred groves set aside for their cultural and religious significance are scattered throughout the state of Meghalaya. It is estimated that there are over 101 such areas through the state, but are more common in the Khasi and Jaintia Hills. A few are also found in the Garo Hills. These groves cover an estimated area of more than 10,000 hectares. Since the groves are subject to very little disturbance, they have over time become important repositories of the locally representative biodiversity. The groves harbor many endangered and endemic species of flora and fauna. Mawphlang is one of the several sacred groves found in this area.

As we approach the sacred grove, and drive through the clouds that hang low, we start seeing massive stone megaliths, a tribute to the ancestors long gone. These megaliths guard the 75 hectare sacred forest. The first sight of the grove takes my breath away. It is truly as magical as I had imagined it. The forests inside the grove are dense and dark, a complete contrast to the surrounding rolling grasslands. Mr. Tambor Lyngdoh escorts us into the grove. There are established pathways on which one can walk. Not the entire grove is accessible to visitors. Mr. Lyngdoh also explained that not even a twig can be taken from the forest. Harm and misery befalls anyone who attempts to do so. It is also believed that the spirits and deities that reside in the groves protect the local population from various kinds of calamities. While showing us the wonders of the grove, he gently picks up a seed that is popularly called ‘Rudraksh’ and used in many religious ceremonies. After explaining to us its significance, he puts it back to where he found it.

 

As we walk along the path in the dense forest, sun streaks through the tree canopy in several places. We also see more stone structures where rituals are still conducted by the local people for specific occasions. These add to the mystique of the place. As an avid reader of Enid Blyton in my childhood, I could almost imagine a few pixies and elves running around these structures. Add to this, the many different kinds of mushrooms growing and the picture is complete. The trees are laden with a variety of orchids. There is an amazing diversity of vegetation on all sides. It is significant that this is indeed a living sacred grove. Rituals are still conducted here. 

The grove is also used for educational purposes where school children are brought here on a regular basis. They are accompanied by Tambor Lyngdoh himself or others who are knowledgeable about the grove. There cannot be a better way to expose children to the wonders of nature as also the spiritual and cultural significance of biodiversity conservation. Despite many more sacred groves in the area, Mawphlang remains the most popular perhaps because of its vicinity to Shillong and is also a popular tourist destination. For most tourists it is a day trip from Shillong. But there are now limited facilities available in the adjoining village of homestays. Something tells me that Mawphlang will always remain magical, a living place.

*This appeared in the Deccan Herald, Student Edition, March 11, 2013

Ecotourism: An Alternative Livelihood Opportunity for Rural Comunities*

On a misty morning in Keoladeo Ghana National Park (popularly known as Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary) in Rajasthan, I am riding on a cycle rickshaw. No vehicles other than cycle rickshaws and bicycles are allowed inside the park, famous for its migratory and resident birds. My cycle rickshaw navigator is also my guide and has an amazing knowledge of birds, right down to their scientific names. This is indeed a unique experience. Almost two decades ago an enlightened forest officer realized that it was important to provide employment to local communities to enlist their support towards the conservation of the park. Rickshaw pullers who were all from the surrounding villagers were trained by the Forest Department in bird watching and are today some of the most skilled bird watchers in the country. The local community here now has a greater stake in protecting this area since they get an economic benefit from this initiative. This example illustrates the potential benefit of tourism in rural areas.

Exploring Bharatpur on Cycle Rickshaws

Tourism is the largest service industry in India, and is said to have a contribution of nearly 5.9 per cent to the national GDP and 9.24 per cent of the total employment in India. A recent study indicates that the travel and tourism sector contributed 6.4 per cent to India’s GDP in 2011. However, in the past a very small percentage of benefits from conventional tourism have actually been directed to rural communities. 

Ecotourism and its benefits to Rural Communities
In the last decade or so, several different and innovative models have emerged in India where tourism, particularly ecotourism, is becoming an alternate livelihood opportunity for rural communities. Simply stated, ecotourism is ‘environmentally responsible tourism’ that includes: Travel to natural areas; minimal ecological, social and cultural impacts; education for the traveler/tourist for environmental awareness; direct financial and other benefits to the local community and respect for different cultures. The International Ecotourism Society defines ecotourism as ‘responsible travel to natural areas that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people’. The definition itself implies that rural communities can benefit from this sub-sector of tourism.

As seen in the Keoladeo example, in several places rural communities living on the periphery of protected areas are being trained and inducted to conduct ecotourism activities at these locations. In other locations, communities are supporting tourism activities by providing homestays. In yet another model, communities have, with external support, established community initiatives that they run as a group, benefits from which are shared equitably. This article examines all these different types of models and discusses what is required for ecotourism to become an ideal livelihood opportunity for rural communities.

Local Communities as Tour Guides
In the Periyar Tiger Reserve, Kerala, local communities formed Ecodevelopment Committees (EDCs) under the Global Environment Facility-World Bank aided ‘India Ecodevelopment Project’ (IEDP), a programme that was initiated in 1996 and continued until 2004. 

EDCs were established with the objective of getting communities involved in conservation related activities while also providing benefits from non-exploitative activities in the park. Under this project 72 EDCs have been formulated and continue to pro-actively coordinate all ecotourism related activities in the Tiger Reserve. The Government has now established a semi-autonomous body called the Periyar Tiger Conservation Foundation (PTCF) that supports implementation of ecotourism programmes in the reserve. Community-based ecotourism programmes in the reserve have provided an incentive for many poachers as well as smugglers to give up illicit activities and turn protectors instead. They now use their intimate knowledge of the forest to guide tourists and are proud of their role in the protection of the forest.  There is a separate EDC exclusively for women members, who also play an important role in the protection of the reserve. The total revenue generated annually from these activities is over Rs 10.5 million. This revenue supports reserve management and provides local people with supplementary income thus reducing their negative dependency on the forests. The activities provide direct employment to 500 tribal families.

Community-based Homestays
Community-based homestay ecotourism is becoming quite popular particularly in the Himalayan region. The villagers allocate one or two rooms in their homes to accommodate tourists. The accommodation is simple but comfortable with basic furniture and clean bedding. Food provided is usually traditional. The homestay owners gain financially by charging the tourists, and tourists in turn have an opportunity to gain a firsthand experience of local culture and tradition. This movement is growing across the Himalayan region and is becoming an important source of livelihood for the Himalayan communities. Almost all the Himalayan states have started promoting home-stay based ecotourism. For example, selected organizations in the three Himalayan states of Jammu and Kashmir (primarily Ladakh), Himachal Pradesh (primarily Spiti) and Sikkim are promoting homestays under the banner of ‘Himalayan Homestays’.

Our Himalayan Homestay Hostess

Homestay at Tso Moriri Lake

Community-based Ecotourism Initiatives
In some instances local communities have come together, and established resorts for tourists. The Sham-e-Sarhad resort, located at Hodka at the edge of Kuchch in Gujarat, is one such. Initiated under the joint Endogenous Tourism Project (ETP) of the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) and the Ministry of Tourism, Government of India, the objective of the enterprise was particularly to open up avenues for new livelihood opportunities for low income rural communities, especially the unemployed youth. The Hodka resort is located in the desert amongst a community rich in its cultural heritage. The resort itself is built in the traditional style of architecture and the food served is local. The resort is managed by the Hodka Tourism Committee comprising representatives from eleven villages that also include four women. This is a unique opportunity for the local community to display their cultural heritage and also gain employment.  

Towards strengthening Community-based Ecotourism
The examples described above indicate that there is tremendous scope for community involvement in ecotourism activities that could help showcase rural culture as well as provide an alternate source of livelihood. However, for this to be successful, communities do require assistance of different kinds.
The examples very clearly point out the need for the involvement of an external body to provide relevant financial and other support to these initiatives. The support could include capacity building and infrastructure support, particularly in the initial stages before the initiative becomes self supporting. Communities cannot be expected to become entrepreneurs on their own without adequate capacity building. They need training in various aspects of hospitality, housekeeping and even accounting. The sustainability of any such initiative in the long run also depends on strong local community institutions. So there is a need to strengthen existing community institutions, and establish new ones if required, to ensure the continued success of such enterprises. To ensure that community-based ecotourism initiatives are quality products, there is a need to set standards and establish an ongoing monitoring protocol. 

Finally it is crucial for such initiatives to be well marketed to ensure that tourists are aware of them and visit them. Usually, such locations are visited by word of mouth, but to ensure sustainability it is important that these enterprises be well publicized through various media. Communities may be handicapped in using the normal channels that other tourism entrepreneurs use.  More documentation and publicity is thus needed through the print and electronic media.

Conclusion
Rural communities today are faced with new challenges such as those of urban migration and climate change. In this changing scenario, it is becomes even more significant to look at alternate sources of livelihood for the rural sector. Ecotourism provides immense possibilities for rural communities to help them realize the worth of their culture and tradition and also provide them considerable financial gain.

*The following article appeared in the inaugural issue of the magazine, "Explore Rural India. Heritage and Development" brought out by The Indian Trust for Rural Heritage and Development. Vol 1, Issue 1, January 2013

In Mowgli Country

The jungles of Kanha made popular by Kipling’s Jungle Book have always held a great attraction for me. For some reason these forests have always brought to mind, the true image of what a ‘jungle’ should be. A mix of Sal and rolling grasslands, Kanha is a wildlife lover’s paradise. Of course the star attraction still remains the tiger. But my last visit to Kanha left me with mixed feelings and several questions. 

Perhaps the most memorable time in Kanha for me is the early morning ride. It is bitterly cold, but exhilarating if well clad. We leave before sunrise in an open jeep and just soak in the atmosphere. It is dawn and the trees are still shadowy but the grasslands look like a fairy land with glistening dew. Then the sun comes out and the forest and grasslands are transformed magically. As we drives along, we encounter the special feature of the park, the hard ground swamp deer or barasingha, a sub species found only in this park. A magnificent animal where the male has a royal bearing with twelve point antlers (the name barasingha is derived from this). The rolling grasslands are also home to thousands of spotted deer or cheetal and other animals and birds. But these unending grasslands as we see them now were not so. There were villages in what is now the park. Kanha National Park has a history of phased relocation of villages outside its core zone.  Since 1960, as many as 27 villages have been relocated. Successfully or not remains a question. Our visit to one of these relocated villages brought home the fact that people still miss their earlier location. It was not clear if life has changed for better or worse. Park officials staunchly believe that the barasingha population and the general health of the park would never have been what it is today, had the villages not been relocated. But was the option of leaving the villages inside even considered? Do we have any evidence at all that the villages inside would have spelt doom for the park? As we drove through the vast Kanha and Saunf grasslands (both are now relocated villages) I was left with this niggling doubt.

We had just returned from the early morning ride when word came that a tigress with four grown cubs had been spotted. So we were back in the jeeps accompanied by park staff to the location where the tigress had been seen. Once we got there, there were elephants to take us to the thicket where this mother and cubs rested. I hesitated before climbing on the elephant. Never before had I indulged in this practice, very prevalent in some of the national parks in Madhya Pradesh. The logic given by the park authorities is that every tourist wants to see the tiger. Its best then to locate one tiger and take tourists there. Only one part of the park and in it the resident tiger population is then exposed while the rest remains undisturbed. I am still not convinced about this. For one, this continues to put the spotlight only on the tiger while taking away from the rest of the park and its inhabitants. Why does only the tiger continue to be the star? It also takes way the thrill of seeing the tiger only by chance and by the draw of your luck.  

No doubt the spotting of this splendid animal with four grown cubs in the thicket where we would never have been able to go by jeep was a memorable experience but for once there was no feeling of exhilaration that a chance spotting gives. Also many unanswered questions. Did I do the right thing by even agreeing to go see the tiger under the circumstances? Was this appropriate?

Paradise Lost and Found in Keoladeo*

The park director is driving us in his jeep, a very special privilege.  There is an aura of tension. We are in quest of the tiger in Keoladeo. Yes, in Keoladeo or Bharatpur as it is popularly known as.  The famed wetland is a haven for migratory and other bird species. The tiger is an anomaly. This 27 sq km park cannot accommodate a large carnivore. But this young male has made it one after having walked several hundred kilometers from Ranthambore National Park. What is amazing is that it made it through fairly densely human populated areas in between the two national parks. What brought it to Bharatpur is a million dollar question, but some of the obvious answers include good and protected habitat, an abundance of prey and no competition from any other large predator. 

Keoladeo Ghana or Bharatpur National Park is situated in the state of Rajasthan and gets its name from Keoladeo (Shiva). It was known as ‘Ghana’ (which literally means dense) due to the thick vegetation in the area. The park is famous for its birdlife. The VIP visitors have been the Siberian Cranes. These are snowy white cranes with black wing tips and a naked red face. They are smaller in size than the native Sarus Cranes. These birds have however stopped coming for many years due to a combination of factors. One is the lack of water and subsequently adequate food and shelter, but the other their being hunted along their migratory route.  

The national park is a natural depression that is believed to be part of a riverbed, speculatively the Yamuna. This used to periodically get flooded. In the 18th century it was modified by building a series of canals to regulate the water. A dam in the form of the Ajan Bund was constructed by the then ruler, Suraj Mal and the area developed as a duck shooting reserve in 1899. Lord Curzon himself inaugurated the first duck shoot here in 1902. But the record for shooting the largest number of birds is held by Lord Linlithgow, the then Viceroy and Governor General of India. He shot 4,273 birds in one day.  Hunting was banned in India in 1972 and this area was declared a national park in 1981.

The park has been facing an acute shortage of water due to a drought situation in the area, but primarily because water has not been released from the Ajan bandh. Water released from the dam is being captured by the upstream farmers and not allowed to flow to the park. As a result the wetland habitat of Keoladeo has shrunk. The tree, Prosopis juliflora dominates the area once inundated by water (a choice habitat for nesting birds). 

The main source of water is a temporary reservoir, namely Ajan bandh, situated 500 m southwest of the present border of the park. Ajan bandh in the past received water from the Gambhir and Banganga river systems, at the confluence of which the National Park is located. However since the 80s the Gambhir has been the only source. Water brought into Ajan bandh is retained there for a few days for the silt to deposit and then released into the park and the surrounding villages in July - August. The time of release of water to the park is vital to the growth of aquatic plants, breeding of heronry species and the overall seasonality of ecological events. The quantum of water received is no doubt the most important factor in the survival of wetlands, and to some extent, that of the upland forests.
Many alternate water sources are now being explored.  But it was nature itself that seems to have saved the park. The monsoon exceeded its normal limits this past year, there was surplus water that was released to the park from Ajan. No sooner did this happen, that the park blossomed and there were glimpses of the Keoladeo of yester years. The park authorities have done a phenomenal job of removing Prosopis. Water is back where it belonged and so are the birds. In October, I saw hundreds of painted storks nesting. These birds seemed to have rescheduled their nesting season. Dawn and dusk bring a cacophony of bird calls and is music to my ears. It was nearing a full moon and this brought with it thousand of migrants.  As winter approaches, more migratory birds will arrive in full force, ensuring that the park regains its lost feathered splendour. The big question. Will the VIP visitors in the form of the Siberian Cranes ever return to the park? One hopes that the regained glory of the park will attract these special guests again.

Did we see the tiger? No. That could be attributed to the healthy undergrowth. It may have been watching us, but was invisible to our eyes. But it has given out a clear message: a healthy ecosystem will attract more animals: big and small; feathered and furred.

*This appeared in the Sunday Deccan Herald August 6, 2012. It is a piece for children.

The Salt Train: A Trip to Sambhar Lake, Rajasthan

Hurtling across the desert in Rajasthan is a train carrying only salt. This is not a scene out of a film but a daily occurrence at the Sambhar lake. Sambhar means salt and true to its name, this is India’s largest saltwater lake located off the National Highway 8 on the way to Ajmer and approximately 90 km west of Jaipur. The lake covers an area of 190 sq km with a length of 22.5 km and with a width that stretches between 3-11 km. The mystery is how a desert area came to have a saline water lake. There are many explanations for this.  The most plausible is that the salt could potentially be a result of the weathering of Aravalli rocks present in the lake watershed.  These rocks contain minerals like feldspar that give rise to soluble sodium salts. The gypsum present may also contribute to the accumulation of sodium. The rivers in the catchment are responsible for the draining of salt into the lake basin. Several fresh water bodies surround the Sambhar lake and have established villages around them. One of the most prominent is the Devyani kund, also known as little Pushkar.

The Salt Train

Historically, the lake and its environs are of great significance. The Sambhar lake is supposed to be the Goddess Shakambhari Devi’s gift to her followers. Shakambari Devi is considered to be the guardian of the Chauhan Rajputs. It is believed that the Devi converted the forests where the lake stands today into a field of precious metals to show appreciation for the devotion of her followers. However, people worried about the feuds this wealth would create and requested the Devi to take back her boon. The Devi converted the fields into salt that would still bring prosperity, but not lead to conflicts.  A temple dedicated to her stands at one edge of the lake. Salt extraction has been carried out at the lake for at least 1000 years and the Rajputs, Marathas, Scindias, the Moghuls and the even the British have carried out the commercial trade of salt from this area. The Devyani kund is mentioned in the Mahabharata as the place where Devyani, daughter of the guru of demons, Shukracharya married the King Yayati. A temple dedicated to Devyani stands by this Kund. This fresh water body is surrounded by many places of religious significance. At one end is also a structure where it is believed the Emperor Akbar camped on their way to Ajmer Sharif. Some say that this is where Akbar married Jodhabai.

Sambhar lake with its brackish water also has a unique ecosystem that attracts flamingoes and other water birds in thousands during the winter months. The lake is covered with a pink hue during the winter months, from the flamingoes that visit.

Flamingoes lending their pink hue to the Sambhar Lake

The rulers of Jaipur and Jodhpur who jointly owned the lake until the 1800s, leased out the salt pans to the British in 1870, who brought about radical changes in salt extraction with improved technology. After independence, the Government of India took over the salt production. The operation is now managed by Sambhar Salts Limited, a joint venture of Hindustan Salts and the Government of Rajasthan.

The Sambhar Salt Works maintains a functional circuit house that was built in 1880. This wonderful building still has an operational lift operating through a pulley system to haul food and related items to the second storey. The circuit house with its spacious and lofty rooms has a balcony that offers a view of the entire lake system. One can picture the British officer in charge sitting there and observing the salt extraction in progress. The train that carries salt is perhaps the only private railway line in the country that does not come under the Indian Railways. There are a few more heritage buildings around the circuit house. There is also a unique salt museum housed in a beautiful building, but in dire need of repairs.

It is hoped that this beautiful place is restored and managed and put on the map of heritage sites.

Netuk House: An Urban Homestay

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We are heading towards the enchanting state of Sikkim. This Himalayan state, despite being the second smallest state in India, is rich in both its cultural and natural resources. Legend has it that the Buddhist saint Guru Padamasambhava or Rinpoche visited Sikkim in the 8th century AD and is said to have foretold the spread of Buddhism and also predicted the era of monarchy in Sikkim. As predicted, the Namgyal dynasty was established in Sikkim in 1642 and the Namgyals ruled over Sikkim as hereditary kings for about 332 years. Sikkim aligned itself with the British rulers in India in the 19th century and became part of India in 1975.

Our journey from Bagdogra to Gangtok that should have taken four to four and a half hours took almost six hours.  Ongoing road construction resulted in several traffic bottlenecks. It had been a long journey from Delhi and we were looking forward to a clean bed and bathroom, minimum requirements for intrepid travelers like us. Our driver informed us that we were to stay in something called ‘Nitu Hostel’ and the name itself didn’t sound too promising. As we drove into Gangtok we first encountered fairy tale houses brightly painted in an assortment of colours. We had just enough time to get over this surprise when the urban sprawl really hit us. Since Sikkim was annexed to India, post the Colonial Era it was never developed by the British as one of the legendary ‘Hill Stations’. The result has been unplanned and haphazard development. As we go deeper into the chaos that is Gangtok, we still wonder about our destination with some trepidation. After a few twists and turns our car stops abruptly. We get out and climb a few steps and encounter a charming old house built in traditional Sikkimese style. This is Netuk House, our place of stay that our driver had obviously mispronounced.


Netuk House is perhaps the oldest home stay in Sikkim. It has been the home of the Dengzongpas, an old and respected Sikkimese family. Strategically located on the Tibet road, it must have been a rather significant place when trade still thrived between Sikkim and Tibet. Today it stands tucked away in a corner of Gangtok, but still only a few minutes away from the hustle and bustle of the town. The guest house that is now part of the Heritage Houses of Himalayas has 12 rooms all decorated in the traditional Sikkimese style with indigenous fabric and furniture. The open terrace with the traditional Buddhist flags flying, affords a breathtaking view of the majestic Khanchendzonga.  As we sip tea here, the clouds descend upon the forests on the eastern Himalayan slopes. Look over the wall and the scenario changes. You can see the real face of Gangtok, jumbled and chaotic. It is this paradox that makes Netuk house so unique. It is quiet and charming, but yet easily accessible to the rest of Gangtok. The food served is home cooked and delicious. One can taste a range of traditional Sikkimese dishes, personally supervised by the lady of the house.  It is not uncommon for a member of the family joining one for meals and amicably chatting with the guests.
 

The welcoming exterior of Netuk House

    

The Dengzongpas are warm and wonderful hosts and can also guide guests on various aspects of the state. Netuk house provides a unique Sikkimese experience and stands out like an oasis in the midst of the growing urbanity of this hill state capital.