Dzuleke: A Unique Experience in Rural Tourism

My excitement knew no bounds when I was asked if I would help set up an ecotourism initiative in a village in Nagaland. Nagaland, a place I always wanted to visit. I had no idea what to expect. I arrived in Dimapur and drove up to Kohima. I was to spend a night here and then proceed to Dzuleke, the village in question. We drove up to a charming bungalow, where I was scheduled to stay. Built in Colonial style, The Heritage is the old District Commissioner's Bungalow, now converted into a guesthouse. This three-room establishment is probably one of the nicest places to stay in Kohima. I wake up to the sound of bagpipes and wonder if I am dreaming. I look out and see someone actually playing the bagpipes. I meet this wonderful gentlemen and his charming wife and over breakfast they tell me that they have been visiting Nagaland for many years as part of the Kohima Educational Trust. 

The veterans of the Battle of Kohima (fought in 1944) established the Kohima Educational Trust in the memory of the Nagas who fought and died in this battle. This is considered as one of the fiercest battles fought involving the British.  A tribute to this battle is the Kohima War Cemetery built in the memory of the British, Scottish and Indian soldiers who fought and died in the battle during the Second World War against the Japanese Army. The Cemetery is still maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission. This beautifully created and maintained cemetery holds the befitting prelude to a British soldier who lay down his life with the lines etched that read, “When you go home, tell them of us and say, For your tomorrow, we gave our today.” 

We leave for Dzuleke the next day. Only 40 kms from Kohima, and yet it takes almost two hours because of the bad road. Dzuleke is an Angami (one of the major tribes in Nagaland) village and gets its name from the river Dzuleke that originates from the eastern Khonoma mountain range and flows in a westerly direction to finally confluence with river Barak in Assam. During its course, the river goes underground once it reaches Dzuleke. ‘Dzu’ means water and ‘leke’ underground in the local language. Dzuleke is the last village of the western Angami region of Kohima. The village was established more than 200 years when a few families from the neighboring village of Khonoma came and settled here. This 33 household village has total population of 200, a number that has remained almost static for the past many years as the younger generation leaves to seek better job opportunities.

We stop at a viewpoint not far from the village where one loses phone network. I will get used to not being connected on phone during my stay at Dzuleke. Not a bad experience at all! We drive into the village and approach a beautifully maintained house, surrounded by flowers. Two Naga women come out to receive us. These two sisters, I am told are going to be my hosts during my stay here. Both of them speak Angamese, the local dialect and some Nagamese (pidgi that is a mix of Bengali, Assamese and Angamese). I of course speak none of these, but we make ourselves understood through sign language. As my stay progresses I realize what wonderful cooks they are and I am in heaven. My favourite is the traditionally cooked pork along with the freshwater crab and chilli chutney. Mouthwatering is also the fresh ginger, chilli and herb chutney eaten with the traditional rice beer. The two sisters and I spent many evenings sitting by the kitchen fire sipping rice beer and licking this chutney. A truly fiery, yet wonderful combination. If in season, there is an amazing array of vegetables available and cooked with local herbs are simply delicious.  The Dzuleke river has the rare snow trout. Fishing of this is regulated. I was fortunate to sample some of this, cooked in traditional style. 

Dzuleke presents an ideal location for visitors to get a feel of rural life in Nagaland. Despite being relatively close to Kohima, it is yet untouched by the rigors of modern civilization. With its quaint houses and beautifully laid out stone walkways and surrounded by forests and rice fields, Dzuleke lets you experience village life and also enjoy nature in its relatively pristine form. Walks through the village provide a glimpse of Angami culture. It is common to see men sitting by their houses weaving baskets of cane and bamboo. Women can be seen weaving cloth on their looms. If one is lucky, you can partake in some of the traditional games. Christianity was introduced in this region in the1890s and Sunday gave me a chance to visit churches and listen to sermons and hymns sung in local Angamese. My hosts also took me to their home garden where vegetables are grown completely organically.  It was such pleasure to be able to pluck fresh corn and then roast it on the kitchen fire.

Evergreen and semi-evergreen forests, along with natural bamboo and cane plantations, surround Dzuleke. Traditionally a hunting community, Dzuleke is special because the elders decided to ban all hunting here in the year 1999 to ensure that the wildlife in the area is conserved for generations to come. The community has also decided to set aside some of the forest as a Community Conserved Area (CCA) where collection of all forest produce will be restricted. The Stump-tailed Macaqu , Barking Deer  and the Mountain Bamboo Partridge are some of the attractions of this place. The state bird of Nagaland Blythe’s Tragopan, found only in Nagaland can also be spotted in the forests of Dzuleke. These forests provide great opportunities for bird and butterfly watching; nature walks and trekking. 

Basket Weaving in Dzuleke

A trek was planned during my second visit with the idea to try and explore trekking routes for tourists.  Perhaps the one of the toughest treks of my life, we walked up a 45-degree incline without a path. Our Naga guide hacked away on the bamboo and undergrowth as we climbed. I am indebted to my two Naga lady friends who accompanied me and quite literally pulled and pushed me up the mountainside. The scenery was spectacular and made up for the all the pain and discomfort. By the time we reached the campsite at lunchtime, the tents had been pitched and fires were burning. Lunch consisted on cold pork that had been sent by the villagers. Dinner was memorable with chicken and pork and also a roast mole that had been picked up dead on the way. This one was not for me! The way down on the next day was a far gentler walk and quite a contrast to the ascent. It appeared that the ascent had been more to test my endurance! I seem to have passed with flying colours because this trek earned me the respect and love of all the Dzuleke residents and I was affectionately given the name, ‘Kezha Le- U” that means, “One who brings a lot to the village”. I was touched and felt completely accepted by the people of this wonderful Naga village. 

After extended visits to Dzuleke, several discussions with the village people and explorations in and around the village, I came up with a feasibility plan and strategy to develop it as a pilot ecotourism destination. Some of the homestays are already up and  running and it is indeed a place worth visiting.

Where Ecotourism facilitates Conservation: Manas National Park

In a remote forest camp of Manas National Park stands Banikanta proud in his uniform. He is not a Forest guard but a Bodo who voluntarily helps in the protection of the park. This is indeed an unusual situation rarely seen in any other part of the country.

Manas known for its rare and endangered wildlife, not found anywhere else in the world, such as Assam Roofed Turtle, the Hispid Hare, the Golden Langur and the Pygmy Hog, was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. Ironically, in 1992, it was put it in the category of ‘World Heritage Site in Danger’ due to heavy poaching and terrorist activities. The ‘80s were a turbulent time for Assam with the beginning of the movement to demand a separate land for the Bodos. This movement took a huge toll on the national park first, since   the insurgent groups and militants used the forests as hideouts and second because, both national and international poaching groups took advantage of the situation leading to destruction. The once resplendent park became a mere shadow of its former self.

In 2003, the Bodo Accord resulted in the establishment of the Bodoland Territorial Council (BTC). This also brought with it a realization that Manas once the pride of the Bodos, needed to be restored to its former glory. Local youth and activists from the All Bodo Students Union (ABSU) decided to take the responsibility for this through their local unit of Chapaguri Koklabari Anchalik Committee (CKAC). The restoration of the park and the endeavour to make it an important tourist destination was thus incorporated as a special package in the Bodo Accord. The Accord also emphasized that participatory tourism should be promoted in Manas.

Through the support of the ABSU and CKAC, came into being, the Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society (MMES), primarily to look after conservation and ecotourism issues in and around Manas. A membership organization, MMES members include ABSU workers, former Bodo Liberation Tigers Force (BLTF) members, ex-poachers, ex-timber fellers and local community members from fringe villages of Manas.  

 

The Society gets its name from a legend about a self styled king who ruled in this area in the mid 18^th century. Among his many workers was a short stout female cook, who the king really favoured because of her hard work and dedication. He lovingly called her ‘Maozigendri’ (literally meaning pot-bellied female cat). One day, she was washing in the river close by when she collapsed and died. The king was greatly saddened on hearing this and declared that the river be called Maozigendri after her. Understanding the significance of the river for local people, the Society (MMES) was thus named. Perhaps the name also indicates prosperity and good health, both important for the Manas National Park.

MMES set up the Manas Maozigendri Jungle Camp to facilitate tourism in the area. The tourism infrastructure at the camp is small, essentially consists of four cottages and a dining cum common room all built with bamboo and other indigenous material. There is additional accommodation at another location. MMES carries out what it terms ‘participatory tourism’ where the tourists are encouraged to participate in various activities of MMES such as patrolling in the park, monitoring and census of various faunal species. Revenue earned from tourism does not go back to the community. The entire profit is spent for conservation after paying expenses and salary/remuneration. Guards at each of the posts within Manas, have also been trained to keep records of wildlife sightings too. Digen at one of the forest posts, very proudly showed us this record.

In 2005, Help Tourism, an organization promoting tourism, particularly in the Northeast stepped in to support MMES specifically in its ecotourism work. It also played a catalytic role particularly when Manas was declared a World Heritage Site in danger and mobilised support for the Park. The first step towards this was attempts at stopping of all poaching in an area of 250 sq. km. The felling of trees and sale of wild meat was also prohibited in this area. The hunters/poachers were punished and subsequently rehabilitated for patrolling and protection. Help Tourism has basically motivated the local people, ensured that an appropriate institutional structure is in place and has also facilitated capacity building through training programmes in the hospitality sector.

Out of the 60 plus villages in the fringe area of the park, at least 17 are involved in various activities of MMES. The biggest challenge being faced by the Society today is how to keep up with providing rations to the volunteers who patrol the park. MMES gets some support from the Forest Department who has accepted the Society and its members as partners in conservation. But even more significant is the fact that the political system in the form of the Bodoland Territorial Council (BTC) supports this initiative and would be keen to support many more of this kind.

 

Manas has been the victim of severe political strife for over 17 years. There is also an entire cadre of people who have in the past been involved in illegal felling of trees and poaching of wild animals. There is a need to focus their energies on something positive and constructive. This initiative has given Bodos a sense of pride and purpose to help regain the lost splendour of the park. The ecotourism initiative in particular has brought to Manas a number of tourists, both domestic and foreign giving the local people a further incentive to protect what is left of a once ravaged ecosystem. Also, since the activities of MMES are so intricately connected, all the stakeholders including tourists and volunteers see the connection between the health of the ecosystem, tourism and the well being of the local community. Through MMES and many like it perhaps the value of ecotourism as a tool to link conservation and communities will be recognized.

Should We Kill the Goose that Lays Golden Eggs: Issues about Tourism in the Andaman Islands

Islands are unique ecosystems due to their isolation and harbour species that are often not found anywhere else. It is estimated that islands have within them half of the tropical marine biodiversity. A third of the biodiversity ‘hotspots’ are found in island ecosystems. However, isolation also makes islands extremely fragile and vulnerable to changes that other ecosystems can withstand. The greatest number of extinctions on earth has been found to occur on islands.

 In the Bay of Bengal of India, lie the largest archipelago system of the islands - the Andaman and Nicobars, consisting of 306 islands and 206 rocky outcrops. The level of endemism in these islands is extremely high and the biodiversity extremely varied and fragile. The islands are at a critical juncture and any disturbance could have a serious impact on their biodiversity.

Today tourism poses perhaps one of the biggest threats to the biodiversity of these islands. The development of tourism on the islands started in seriousness, about ten years ago. The number of tourists and with it the number of facilities has been growing since then. However, most of the tourism in the Andamans is largely unregulated and unplanned. 

Building of tourism related infrastructure has led to degradation of the habitats, particularly unauthorised structures that have come up on many of the beaches. Construction material used to build tourism facilities also impacts the ecosystem. Sand, for example that is used in construction comes primarily from the mining of the islands beaches.  Many of the beaches in the Andamans are used as nesting sites by turtles. Mining and construction activities cause disturbance to turtles.

Perhaps the biggest threat from tourism is in the form of pollution. Pollution of water through garbage thrown in and oil from excessive boat traffic is already causing water pollution that will in turn affect marine biodiversity. Marine fauna have been known to choke on plastic and other material thrown into the water. Moreover, floating plastics may provide a vehicle for alien species to come to the islands. A disastrous consequence for isolated fragile ecosystems. Solid waste disposal is the biggest issue that any island system faces. Lack of a planned system of disposal will result in pollution at all levels. Burning seems to be the only system at present to get rid of garbage and this applies to plastics as well. This is going to lead to further air pollution as also the release of highly toxic gases.   

Coral reefs are an integral part of this island ecosystem and are highly sensitive to any changes in the environment. Ironically, it is these very coral reefs that attract a large number of tourists to the Andamans. There has been concern over the impact of tourism on the coral reefs. In fact marine biologists had cautioned against unregulated tourism activities on the islands even before tourism was being promoted as it is being today. Shell and coral collection by tourists and traders has resulted in a lot of damage already. Boatmen who take tourists snorkelling give the coral reefs another few years before they are completely degraded, if tourism is not regulated.

Increasing numbers of tourists to the islands put great pressure on these fragile ecosystems that are comparatively less resilient and prone to collapse due to extraneous pressures.  It is also not only the number of tourists but also the kind of regulation (or lack of it) that is a serious cause of concern.

How then can this be addressed? Tourism if well planned and regulated can be beneficial to the ecology and economy of these islands. The number of people coming to the islands certainly requires to be regulated. If the ecological concept of carrying capacity is followed then, this capacity needs to be first assessed and then number of tourist restricted accordingly. Certain areas with particularly fragile and significant coral reefs would need to be cordoned off from time to time to allow for regeneration. Waste disposal is something that the island administration needs to carry out on a war footing. Perhaps the most significant and most neglected is the issue of imparting good awareness and education about the islands and their fragility to the general public. Majority of tourists visiting the islands are not aware of these aspects that make the islands so special. Creatively designed and effective communication material in the form of posters, audio-visuals etc is urgently required.

Tourism is a double-edged sword. It can bring in substantial revenues to the state exchequer as also local communities. On the other hand unplanned and unregulated tourism can do inordinate harm, particularly to fragile ecosystems such as these islands. The situation is similar to that of the proverbial goose that laid golden eggs. Can we afford to kill the goose itself?

                                     

Homestays in Korzok, Ladakh

Homestay in Tso Moriri Lake

Ladakh is a unique trans-Himalayan region in the State of Jammu and Kashmir. Situated at an altitude of 4595 meters above sea level in this region lies the brackish water lake of Tso Moriri. Tso Moriri is spread over an area of 120 sq.km. with a maximum depth of 40 m. and is one of the world’s highest lakes and the largest brackish water body in the Indian Changthang (Chang means north and thang means plains) region. Changthang is part of the Tibet’s vast northern plateau land.

The lake represents a unique wetland type in the trans-himalayan biogeographic zone and harbours a distinctive assemblage of fauna and flora, significantly, the blacknecked crane (Grus nigricollis).  The lake plays a vital role as a breeding ground, particularly for the barheaded geese (Anser indicus) and key staging posts for many other migratory water birds. Tso Moriri is a Wetland Conservation Reserve (Under the Jammu and Kashmir Wildlife Protection Act 1978) and was also recognized a wetland of international importance as Ramsar Site in 2002. The lake is part of the Changthang Cold Desert Wildlife Sanctuary declared under the Wildlife (Protection) Act, 1972 (WWF India/MoEF).

The Changthang plateau is inhabited by the nomadic Changpa community who moves with its livestock in search of grazing grounds in tune with the changing seasons. However, more and more Changpas are resorting to a settled way of life. A permanent settlement of Changpas exists on the shore of this lake. This is the village of Korzok. There are at present, approximately 149 households comprised of both settled and nomadic communities. Of these 23 households are settled in the village.  Among the nomads, the Tigazong group comprises of 80 households and the Phestse group comprises of 25 households.  Besides these, there are 21 households belonging to Tibetan refugees. The village also has a 300-year-old monastery (Manoharan et al 2006).  

Traditionally, the wealth of Changpa family is determined by the size of the herd they possess. However there is a concern over the decrease in pasture land and the lifestyle of Changpas has also changed ever since the opening of the road connecting this area to Leh and the subsequent increase in tourism.

Tourism has increased drastically in this area and numbers have risen from a few hundred to several thousand today. As a consequence, unregulated tourism has emerged as a conservation threat. Tourists who come with their pack animals—donkeys, mules and horses, are putting additional pressure on the already depleting pasturelands.  Vehicles that bring tourists are often washed in the lake and connecting streams. Increased human activity disturbs wildlife and also causes degradation of the ecosystem. Camping of visitors close to the breeding sites of several highly endangered species has adversely affected conservation initiatives. There is also limited accommodation in the area surrounding the lake. At present the village and the lake area can accommodate a total of 35 tourists, through a combination of tents, guesthouses, a resort and the recently started home stays.

WWF India has been working in this region since 1999. The main focus of its work has been to develop a strategy and plan for the conservation of this and other selected high altitude wetlands in Ladakh. During the course of WWF India’s work here it became clear that conservation of this wetland would not be possible without the participation of the local people.  In mid 2002, WWF India facilitated the establishment of the Tso Moriri Conservation Trust, which was legally registered under the Trust Act of the Jammu and Kashmir State (WWF India 2000). The idea of the Trust was to support local people to finally take over conservation efforts in the area. The head lama of the local monastery and a retired schoolteacher, both highly respected by the local community, were unanimously chosen by the villagers as the Chairman and vice-Chairman of the Trust.

The Need for A Greater Stake in the Tourism Activities    

With the increase in tourism in Ladakh and the Tso Moriri wetland, local people have been increasingly feeling the need for a greater stake in this industry and have been discussing ways and means of doing so with the WWF India team. Until a year ago tourists came to the lake and stayed at the limited accommodation available or camped at the designated campsites. There is one camping site run by a local community member and there is other land that is rented out for camping by other villagers. All in all, there has been comparatively little benefit that the villagers of Korzok got from tourism at the lake. As a result they were also only peripherally interested in the conservation of the lake.

Planning and Capacity Building for Community-based Tourism

It is with this in mind that planning for a greater stake for communities started at Korzok. The first exercise conducted towards this was a set of visitor surveys through questionnaires in 2000-01. The questionnaires were designed to understand the tourist profile and what the tourists’ expectations of hospitality were. The survey revealed that many tourists visiting Tso Moriri came for adventure. Most however came for the aesthetic and cultural experience. Further analysis showed that most tourists felt that the local communities should benefit from tourism and encouraged the development of home stays.

Encouraged by the results of the survey, the WWF India team carried out discussions and groundwork for developing homestays over a period of two years. The women folk of Korzok were in particular, increasingly getting interested in this concept where they could let out a room in their house to tourists and play local host to tourists while also earning some thing from this initiative. The women had heard that this was possible from their relatives who lived in the Rumbak and Markha valleys of Ladakh. The women thus approached WWF India for support in this initiative. Ten home stays were selected on the basis of some basic criteria such as location of the house; cleanliness and space; ability of the women in the house to handle tourist etc.

The homestays were named after birds that are regular visitors to the lake. Each homestay has one room dedicated for the tourist within an archetypal Ladakhi household. The room allocated is meant for two to three tourists and is provided with the very basic amenities like mattresses, blankets etc. Tourists are expected to use the indigenous Ladakhi toilet facilities, which are clean and environmentally friendly. Tourists eat with the host family in the typical Ladakhi kitchen, where the lady of the house serves them a traditional Ladakhi meal or what the tourists ask for. Most of the homestays have a spectacular view of the lake. Overall, these homestays provide the complete Ladakhi experience to tourists, besides of course offering comfortable accommodation at a reasonable rate to enable the tourist to enjoy the lake and its environs.  

In the summer of 2006, just before the advent of the tourist season, the team facilitated an interesting capacity building exercise with resource persons who were themselves successfully running homestays in the Hemis National Park in another region of Ladakh. The team from Hemis consisted of four women and one man. This week long training programme was held with the basic objectives of: i) training the owners of the homestays for efficient management; ii) training the women in aspects of cooking for tourist, hygiene etc. iii) training the owners in the financial aspects. 

What was distinctive about this training was the fact that there were fellow Ladakhis who conducted the training, increasing the camaraderie and trust between the trainers and the trainees. On the first day, after the introduction, the trainers shared experiences about hygiene, waste segregation, boiling of drinking water etc. On Day 2, the discussion started with how tourists should be distributed among the homestays without clash of interests. Later, a marketing strategy for the Korzok homestays was discussed.  On Day 3, the resource persons visited every potential homestay and provided ‘hands on’ experience on cooking and cleaning. Day 4 was spent in working on guidelines for tourists visiting homestays. These guidelines were finalized by the end of the day. Day 5 focussed on the review of every homestay by the resource persons. A discussion was carried out on Day 6 on how to make the village of Korzok and surrounding areas clean. On the concluding day, the finalized guidelines were put up in every homestay. The day ended with a cultural programme.

In a rather unique gesture pertaining to Budhhism called Chuspon, by the end of the training, the trainees and the trainers were bound to each other by a special everlasting relationship. This is a partnership which binds two people through Chuspon where by there always a sharing of gifts whenever one visits the other and each is always welcome in the other’s house. This extraordinary relationship strengthened the bond between the resource persons and the homestay owners and encouraged the homestay owners to be more professional in their approach.

50% of the funds required for the training was contributed by the homestay owners themselves and 50% came from the Trust. Some seed money was given by WWF India. The distribution of tourists is carried out by two homestay owners by rotation. There is a fixed tariff for all homestays, which is very strictly adhered to. At present benefits arising out of this enterprise go directly to the homestay owners. The Tso Moriri Conservation Trust will eventually take over the complete management of home stays. It is foreseen then that there would be a central management of funds and also a common fund to be used for other related activities. Several other management systems will have to be worked out to avoid conflict, which may arise as this initiative grows.

The ten homestay owners take the lead in collecting garbage every month. The non-biodegradable garbage is sent back to Leh at the end of the season. Each homestay also has a register for tourists to provide their feedback to their hosts. This will definitely help in improving the homestay facilities. Feedback from tourists this season has indicated that this endeavour has been highly appreciated by them. Some comments are as follows:

“I hope that the project of homestays will really help the people of Korzok to preserve their village and the marvelous lake. Please pay attention to the garbage disposal and do not use too much cement”.

“What a wonderful way to visit and be part of a (rather exotic) part of a village. Wonderful cooking and extreme friendliness and respect. The homestay was the best guesthouse experience during India travels”.

“Thank you for hospitality and good cooking. We hope very much that the excellent Korzok homestay system will help local people as well as conserve the wonderful fauna and flora of Tso Moriri. You live in a very special place”.

The home stays in Korzok are at a preliminary stage, but have been vastly popular with tourists in the season of 2006. The women who are running these are suddenly feeling empowered and energized. The people of Korzok feel that they are finally getting their fair share from tourism at Tso Moriri. They are also now clearly seeing the significance of the lake and conserving it if the tourists are to continue coming. The head Lama of the local Monastry says that the early tourists that he remembers visiting the lake over 20 to 30 years ago stayed in local people’s homes. There were no other tourist facilities in the area. Looks like things have come full circle at Tso Moriri, with the homestays gaining more popularity.     

Lessons Learnt

-This is a significant homestay initiative where the local people themselves came forward to start this enterprise.

-However, the support of an external agency (WWF India) is required to take such an initiative forward particularly in such a remote area.   

-Capacity building of the homestay owners is vital and it is best if this is imparted through experience sharing with people from the same region if possible.

-A local institution (The Tsomoriri Conservation Trust) is necessary for the management of such an enterprise and is also important to ensure the equitable sharing of benefits as also to resolve any conflicts that arise.  

-Considerable prior planning and consultation is required before starting a venture like this. Any such enterprise cannot happen overnight.

-There is also a need for stringent guidelines followed by regular monitoring of the same to ensure that quality of service is maintained.

Ecotourism in the Buffer Zone of Chitwan National Park

Baghmara and Kumrose are two community forest areas that lie in the buffer zone of the Chitwan National Park (CNP) in Nepal. This is one of the finest protected areas in all of Asia, known for its magnificent grasslands and the Great One-horned Rhinoceros. The Village Development Councils (VDCs) of these two areas have established successful ecotourism initiatives for several years now. These initiatives were launched with the support of the Biodiversity Conservation Network (BCN) and the then King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation (KMTNC) (now National Trust for Nature Conservation).

Souvenir Shop in Chitwan National Park

Baghmara and Kumrose had large areas of degraded forest land. As part of this initiative, a portion of the land was converted into rosewood plantations. These plantations now support all the fuel wood and fodder needs of community. The rest of the degraded land was allowed to regenerate to its original state, without any disturbance. This subsequently became prime habitat for the rhinoceros and even an occasional tiger. Through the BCN and KMTNC support, the VDCs set up two Machaans (Watch towers) for wildlife viewing. Both VDCs now own elephants that take tourists to the watchtowers. Tourists generally spend the night there and return the next morning. The VDCs also organise boat rides for crocodile viewing. These activities are all carried out by the local people. The revenue generated from ecotourism goes to the VDC and the village decides how it should be spent. Today, thanks to this planning, the villagers donot have to venture into the park for fuelwood or fodder. They are also getting additional income from tourists who visit their very own ‘rhino viewing spots’. The damage rhinoceros cause to their crops is overlooked because of the revenue these very rhinos generate. 

The political turmoil in Nepal took a huge toll on tourism in the country. However, by some stroke of luck, the ecotourism initiative in the VDCs, particular Baghmara survived and quite interestingly, through the years of turmoil the tourists who came were actually taken to Baghmara which was safer and where the siting of rhinos was guaranteed. Most tourists were not even aware that this was the buffer zone of the park. My frequent visits to Chitwan have confirmed the opinion that this initiative still survives despite the initial project having concluded several years ago and has actually worked as an extension of the park in times of turmoil.

Protectors of the Yuksam-Dzongri Trail

A group of tourists was trekking on the Yuksam-Dzongri trekking trail in Sikkim. They were accompanied by a guide, porters and cooks.  At the end of the day, the tourists were tired and cold. They requested the porters to build them a bonfire. For the tourists, this seemed like an exciting idea to get warm and cozy. However, much to their surprise, the porters refused to comply with their request. On being asked why, they were told that they had been taught during their training that wood should not be collected for bonfires along the trail since this led to its degradation. So amazed were the tourists with this insight that they wrote a letter to the Chief Minister of Sikkim commending these people and congratulating the state for its ‘ecosensitive’ attitude.    

Yuksam-Dzongri is a well-known trekking trail on the route to the mighty Khangchendzonga, the world’s third highest mountain peak. The trail runs along the periphery of the Khangchendzonga National Park, famous for the red panda and many other animal and bird species.  It starts from the village of Yuksam and winds its way to Dzongri and finally to Goecha La, covering a distance of 45km and reaching an altitude of 4940m.This is also one of the few trekking trails open for Indians as well as foreigners in Sikkim.

The village of Yuksam lies tucked away in the far western corner of Sikkim. It is highly revered (it is said that this was the place where the Gods first came and settled) and known to be the first capital of Sikkim. Two of the state’s sacred lakes, Kathok and Khecheopalri are also situated in this area. Local elders tell an interesting tale about these lakes. Kathok is supposed to be the male and Khecheopalri the female lake. Kathok was given more importance to the Kathok lake, while Khecheopalri was neglected and polluted by people dumping garbage into it. It is said that Khecheopalri became annoyed at this and went and settled away from Kathok lake. 

Yuksam used to be a sleepy little village. Tourists hardly spent any time at Yuksam before setting off on the trek. The villagers had very little interest in the tourists or the trail since only those who were hired as guides, porters or cooks earned from trekking activities. This remained so until 1995 when a project on Sikkim Biodiversity and Ecotourism started in this village. The aim of the project was to ensure that the people of Yuksam benefited from the trekking tourism on the trail, to address the threats that the biodiversity on the trail faced and to then try and influence the state government to have better policies for tourism in general and ecotourism in particular.

The project tried to achieve these aims through training of many different groups of people. There were training programmes for the guides who took tourists on the trail. These programmes made the guides aware of the ‘Do’s and Don’ts’ on the trail. The guides were also made to realize the importance of this trail because of its unique biodiversity. There were training programmes for porters and cooks, focused on how best they could carry on with their activities without causing much damage to the trail. As a result of the trainings, these people became aware of the significance of this trail and this knowledge instilled in them a sense of pride and responsibility towards it As feedback about these well trained and aware guides, porters and cooks went back to the state government, their wages were increased and this added as another incentive to do a good job.  

Most of the guides, porters and cooks belonged to the village of Yuksam. As the other villagers watched these trainings and the results from them, they also got enthused and wanted to contribute to the project. They realized that if they made their village and houses more attractive to tourists, then perhaps these people who spent only one night in the village might stay longer. Many villagers started giving out rooms in their houses for tourists to spend the night. Shopkeepers started storing more things in their shops. Residents opened a few more restaurants as tourists started spending more time in the village. Yuksam seemed to suddenly wake up and take pride in its existence!

The youth of the village then decided to get together and form an organization that they called the Khangchendzonga Conservation Committee (KCC). The Yuksam-Dzongri trail being on the periphery of the national park is managed by the Forest Department. The KCC, however, decided to help the Forest Department in keeping the trail clean, by organizing regular clean-up campaigns. The KCC also developed a Code of Conduct for all trekkers, very clearly pointing out what could and could not be done on the trail. Visitors to Yuksam were requested to follow the Code of Conduct. Planning for all these activities was carried out along with all the villagers, who had an equal say on what should be done. 

Once, while members of the KCC were cleaning the trail, they came across two foreigners collecting insects. When asked what they were doing, the foreigners said that they were scientists and were collecting insects for research. Members of KCC got suspicious and asked the foreigners if they had got permission from the Government to do so. At this point, the foreigners gave some excuse for not having permission and tried to get away. However, members of KCC were on the alert and caught them. These foreigners were handed over to the Forest Department officers in Yuksam. Investigations revealed that the foreigners were Russians who were part of a much larger gang smuggling insects out of India. The Forest Department officials thanked and congratulated the KCC members for their good work.     

The beautiful Himlayan state of Sikkim has a lot to offer to tourists in terms of natural beauty. Tourism planning at Yuksam for the Yuksam-Dzongri trail is now used as a model for Sikkim. The state government is using this model for planning tourism in different parts of Sikkim. Perhaps the most important impact this project has had on planning in government is to ensure that different kinds of people ranging from the villagers, tour operators and government officials all sit together and plan for a particular area.

If you visit Sikkim, don’t forget to trek on the Yuksam-Dzongri trail.